Tobons Around the World: Sensory Overload: First Impressions of Hanoi

3am wake up call, check. 4am departure from the hotel, check. Passports and cash, check. Crazy lines at the airport, check. Grandpa and 8 family members cutting the line in front of me, check. Courtney getting frustrated and almost getting in a fight with Grandpa, check. People yelling, shoving, and pushing to see who can get to the ticket counter first, check. 6am ON TIME departure, check. GOOD MORNING VIETNAM!!!!!!!!!

We arrived in Hanoi, Vietnam on the morning of March 11th and it was the first visit for all of us. We were unsure of what to expect, but we were so excited for the day ahead. We just needed to get through the visa approval process. Luckily, we were some of the first people off the airplane, which means some of the first in line at the visa counter. Feeling good, I pull out our passports and our approval for entry paperwork. Miguel then asks for the pictures. “What pictures?” I ask. A silent stare burns my eyes and I finally remember. Days before Miguel reminded me to have 2 passport pictures ready for our port of entry into Vietnam. Oh god, the pictures are in my suitcase, which is sitting in baggage claim. Who knows if we will be allowed entry without those pictures! Scared for my life, I jump into action. I must fix this! I put on a smile, turn on the charm, push to the front of the line, and plead my case. I get invited into the office to speak with The Boss. The Boss is just sitting at a desk in the middle of the room watching his workers hustle. I say hello and begin to tell my story with 100 other visitors watching though the floor to ceiling glass walls. I’m praying to God this guy will let us through. He thinks and jesters to another worker to come over. They speak in Vietnamese for what seems like forever. They laugh and I laugh….pretending to know what is going on. I’m just standing there like an idiot waiting for these guys to decide our fate. Then The Boss turns to me and says, “We will take your pictures for $2 each.” Agreed! I smile because the charge is so minimal. Thank you God. Thank you God. I kept repeating in my head. I will not be getting a divorce today☺ Furthermore, if I would have known these guys would only charge $2 per picture I would have never paid for the passport pictures to begin with. It’s cheaper to “forget” your pictures.

After the visa debacle, we headed for our bags, and to get a cab. As we started our 45-minute journey to Hanoi’s city center we were immediately overwhelmed by the action that filled the streets. Rice fields covered the countryside while 2-wheeled motorbikes filled the highways. Watching the speeding motorbikes zoom by you couldn’t help but stare. Some of the bikes were filled with entire families while others were pilled high with farm animals. Contradictions were everywhere. Poor people filled the streets while 3 brand new Rolls Royce phantoms drove by. It was insane. Everything was SO different…the architecture, the culture, the sounds, the smells, the people, the pace, and the lifestyle. We were really out of our comfort zone.

Typical architecture in Hanoi

view from our cab

High heels and scooters a common occurence

The Vietnamese LOVE brands. Check out the Luis Vuitton and Burberry inspired seat cover and helmet.

View from our room

Our hotel was very small, inconspicuous and located in the traditional Old Quarter. The Old Quarter is so charming because locals and the local way of life surround you. Hanoi is almost untouched by tourism. It was amazing and a bit intimidating to be in the middle of it all. We arrived at the hotel, dropped off our bags and immediately headed out to explore. Everyday was like this. There are not many tourist sites to visit in the city. The best way to understand Hanoi and its culture is by walking the streets, eating the local food, and taking it all in. Almost instantly you can see the French influence in the architecture and local bakeries. The streets are full of people, motorbikes, tuk tuks, 4 wheeled cars and buses. While the sidewalks are lined with small eateries, even smaller chairs, and vendors selling anything and everything. Just walking can be hazardous. Rules do not seem to exist here. Motorbikes drive in any lane and in any direction they want.

Local fishmonger

Rooster feather dusters

on your mark, get set, go!!!

Scooterville, Hanoi

The heart of the city is Hoan Keim Lake and the multiple city streets that surround it. Here is where you find many locals walking hand in hand enjoying a stroll, the view, and the local cuisine. We started our journey here. As we wandered down multiple city streets we found the sidewalks lined with food stations, motorbikes, and fishmongers. The fishmongers are fascinating and many of them are women. They carry baskets of fish, fresh meat, fruit, and bread. They are mobile and carry their produce and meat to the masses….stopping for local patrons passing by. It is truly amazing to see. A customer points, the fishmonger chops (on a block of wood with a large butcher knife), places the goods in a plastic bag, and BAM another satisfied customer. Incredible.

People watching was one of our favorite things to do. You can’t help but stare, in awe, at the chaos that is their everyday normal life. The city full of 4 million people, 2 million motorbikes, and is always bustling. We found a delicious coffee shop right in the middle of it all. It had a view of one of the main streets in town and of Hoan Keim Lake. We spent hours here taking videos and pictures of the ridiculous traffic, the speeding motorbikes, and of tourists trying to cross the street. Traffic lights are just a distraction and crossing the street is an art form. Literally you just start walking to cross the street. If you wait for a brake in traffic you will be waiting for hours. The rules to cross the street are simple and as follows: 1) Do not run 2) Do not make any sudden movements and 3) Do not be afraid. I’m not going to lie, it is truly terrifying when you cross the street for the first time, but like many things, you just get used to it. It was hilarious and incredibly entertaining. And to my surprise, we did not see one accident. What we saw as jumbled mess was somehow a well oil machined.

Look at the older gentleman with the cane in the middle of the cross walk

Hola Luis!

Another important part of the city are the numerous open-air food stations. These “restaurants” can be found on the many sidewalks and offer a variety of local fare, but the traditional Vietnamese PHO dominates in popularity. They consist of a few small tables, even smaller chairs, and one large pot to cook in. The preparation of the food, the cooking, and the eating all happens outside on the sidewalk. During the lunch and dinner hours the sidewalks are full of hundreds of people eating. In some cases the sidewalks can’t even be used because of the crowds. Everything is shared…the tables, the utensils, and the food. It is a true communal experience.

one of hundred of street "restaurants"

miniature seats and tables

dinner time in Hanoi

From the moment we had arrived, Miguel had been dying to find and authentic and traditional bowl of PHO. This delicious noodle soup paired with beef quickly became Miguel’s favorite dish. We visited a recommended local joint call PHO BO for a true Vietnamese experience. The line was out the door with local patrons waiting for a bowl. And yes, this place also offered seating on the sidewalk. To be honest, we were all nervous to try the food. The lack of proper sanitation was frightening. The food was prepared with bare hands right in front of you. There were 3 cooks preparing the PHO (the only dish offered) and one of them was sick….coughing directly into the giant pot of broth with all of us watching. And to top it off, our utensils were rinsed off (already used) wood chopsticks. After standing and staring for at least 5 minutes we committed and ate our $1 PHO. In all seriousness, no one got sick, the food was delicious, and the experience was well worth. After that we were no longer out of our comfort zone. We felt a part of the city.

Locals eat here and wait in line for their pho, so it better be good

Our first Pho in Vietnam, despite the hygiene issue it was delicious!

Our experience in Hanoi was incredible and truly unforgettable! It was unlike anything else we had EVER seen. We were able to get a true since of the locals and the city. It was great to become apart of something so foreign to us. We fell in love with Hanoi and would recommend it to anyone! Below are some more pics from Hanoi.