Tuesday, July 26, 2011

So Pissed!

Morocco: 7/16/11-7/21/11

As you know, Miguel and I have been traveling for almost 7 months now and I feel quite comfortable being aboard. Comfortable in a sense of not being taken advantage of, always aware of my surroundings, and I can adapt easily to new situations. Or at least I thought.

Morocco is a beautiful place. Palm trees line the streets, camel rides are available on most street corners and the souks (markets) are a must see. We spent much of our time in Marrakech relaxing, but we did have to venture out side of the Hotel walls and have a “real” Moroccan meal and see the Suks.

I love visiting the markets of new places. It really describes the tastes and preferences of the local people and I believe it is a wonderful birds eye view of what the culture is really like. I was excited. I had done my research, I knew what to expect, and couldn’t wait to find the perfect henna tattoo artist.

We took a short taxi ride to the center of town (Marrakech is smaller than I imagined and easy to navigate). Miguel and I crossed the busy street and started our journey to the biggest souk in town. Many streets feed into the main circle where the market begins. The crowds fill the front market area. Many stand it awe of the snake charmers that line the streets. Tourists (including us) really stand out and vendors spot you immediately. As Miguel and I approached the market area he reminded me, “Babe, remember don’t engage in conversation with anyone. Stay focused. Be alert.” Literally right after our conversation I stopped in my tracks. 12 black cobras being charmed. Yes, COBRAS. These snakes were not in baskets, they sat directly on the street and you could get as close as you dared. I couldn’t peel my eyes away….I felt so scared, but was so intrigued. I just had to watch. The snakes were huge, they stood so tall, and they looked like they were dancing. It was mesmerizing.  I was so engrossed that I let my guard down.

Before I knew what was happening I had a lady in my face asking me if I wanted a henna tattoo. She spoke firmly and very fast. She was obviously a born seller. “Look at my book lady….beautiful artwork for your hands….a great souvenir…take a picture....sit over here…very cheap….you asked me….I tell you…very cheap….where you want….I put it anywhere…..you tell me lady….I do for you!” I continue to say no and I try to hand back her photo book and she grabs my hand and starts putting her henna designs on my forearm. I gently try and pull away and she says, “Don’t worry….you will like….pretty….look…I do flowers for you….it’s for good luck….you like….I know…you have camera….please…take picture with me!” Miguel is still enamored with the cobras at this point and now I have a henna tattoo that covers most of my forearm and my wrist. Note: she said all of this and even did the artwork in all of 2 minutes. I was overwhelmed. Even though I didn’t ask for the tattoo, I knew she would want money. I just let her finish and hoped for the best.

After she dabbed the final touches of glitter (really, glitter?) on my arm she says $50. My eyes fall out of my head and I say forcefully, “I DIDN’T EVEN WANT THIS…YOU GRABBED MY HAND AND STARTED DRAWING!” She screamed back, “NO! NO! NO!…don’t let me have your hand….you wanted…I gave you….good price…you ask…I did…..I want money….you need to pay me….$40.” The price immediately dropped $10 and off we went….the negotiating began. Miguel came over to assess the situation and he too gawked at the price. He says, “$5.” She growls and refuses. The negotiating continues, voices get louder, the stress level increases, arms are flailing about, I threaten to wash off the henna, voices continue to get louder, a small crowd gathers behind us and then Miguel threatens to get the police involved. Finally, this scares her. Miguel hands her $8 and we walk off.

Whoa! I was so taken back! Did I really just let that happen? Did I just get screwed? I was so mad at the situation and myself. I felt defeated and totally taken advantage of. This is not how I pictured my day…..this is not what was supposed to happen. I had to sit, digest, and re-focus. I needed a Coke and a smile. In hindsight, a small price to pay to get back in the swing. Remember: Never let your guard down, always be aware of your surroundings, and DON’T TALK TO STRANGERS! I say this with seriousness, but always with a smile.

Notice the henna tatto goes all the way down my forearm

Ugliest henna ever! My pissed face. PS the henna lasted for more than a week. 


Saturday, July 9, 2011

Living Within a Postcard

Preface: It has been way too long! I have been absent for almost 2 months and truly feel guilty. The pleasures of our trip, especially in Europe, have been some of the best. To be honest, I have been too busy enjoying the company of our travel companions and indulging in all the delicacies that Italy, Ireland, France and Spain have to offer. I do apologize for my absence and I’m finally ready to tell the tales of our “Summer of Awesomeness!”

I will start with Positano, Italy. It definitely deserves its own blog.  It was the last stop on our Italian tour and though we all looked forward to our week there, we had no idea that we would all fall in love and that Positano would be the favorite city of the trip so far.

Though, no one in my family had ever been to Positano our love affair with the coastal city started many years ago with the comedy “Only You”. Some of you may know the late nineties movie with Marissa Tomei and Robert Downey Jr. and many have said Mom, Morgan and I know it a little too well.  To be honest, this film was the true inspiration for our visit to Positano. We are still known to quote the movie and have seen it probably 100 times.  As the movie depicts, the city is full of romance, charm, and stunning views.  But the best part of it all and our small claim to fame is the fact that our condo can be seen in the film!

Known as the Pearl of the Almafi coast, Positano, is literally built on a cliff.  Cars are few, steps are many, and the center of the city revolves around the beautiful beach. The moment we arrived we knew we wouldn’t want to leave. Our condo was one of the many highlights. Our balcony faced the water and became our favorite hang out spot. We enjoyed the morning hours lounging with our coffee, the afternoon napping on the lawn chairs, and the evenings singing with the local bands with cocktails in our hands. Everyday was spent like this. Our biggest decisions were when and where to eat and if we had enough energy to shower.



View from our balcony...bellisimo!!
Favorite spot!





One of the best things about Positano is its size. It is very small and has a wonderful small town feel. Many of the locals have spent their lives and raised their families in Positanto. Everyone knows everyone and the minute you arrive you are treated as family. The culture of Positano is best described by its people, but also by its food. It’s fresh, local, delicious, and every bite is meant be savored.  Our best evenings and our best meals were enjoyed in Positano! Wether it was a fresh mozzarella salami sandwich made from the local convenience store or a sit dinner at Da Vincenzo’s or take away pizza…all meals were wonderful, traditional, made with love and absolutely delicious.

Da Vincenzo's with one of the chefs

Homemade pasta with delicious red sauce. Again, Da Vincenzo's

Literally, eating on the street!

Grilled squid in a light lemon butter sauce...holy greatness!

Morgan's favorite dessert! Fresh berries and cream.

The Three Crazies....love you!




Biggest lemons EVER! Morgan obviously wanted a pair too.

Three pretty ladies
This Ravioli was the best dish on the whole trip!

Writing this blog, I find myself missing Positano and so excited to return. Here we learned that seeking pleasure in the small things is sometimes the most rewarding! All you need is a balcony, a view, great food, and the people you love to share it with!  Thank you Positano….the impression is deep and the memories are strong!  




The first 60 steps of the 300 to get home.

Ciao Italia!

Friday, June 24, 2011

Giro d'Italia

How do you spend 40 days in Italy? You invite some of your favorite people in the world to accompany you and indulge in all the sights, smells, and tastes the country has to offer.  Celesta Ernst (Court's Mom) and Morgan Ernst (Court's Sister) joined us for one of the most anticipated legs of our year long trip.  Celesta baptized us as "The Three Crazies and a Colombian". I know it sounds crazy to travel with your mother-in law, sister in-law, and wife for 40 days, but in actuality it is Freaking Crazy!!!...just kidding! It only took a few days for us to get our groove and get used to the sound and smells that come with each one of us.   We adapted to living in close quarters for the first 10 days and fought off some nasty colds as well.

In no time our estrogen rich foursome was an unstoppable force.  We would overcome the cruelties of traveling by car in Italy, where the windy roads make you wish you were rather sailing the Atlantic Ocean during a heavy storm.  Court and I barely survived the biggest test our marriage had seen thus far, by finally learning how to work together as the Driver and Navigator on road trips. However, Courtney's "episode" on the A4 on route to Vernazza will be immortalized in my memory, with her lungs fully expanded and her piercing eyes cutting through my forehead the words "I did not tell you to take that turn!!!!" come out of her mouth.  The consoling part to me was that had I listened to her we would have been heading back to Venice, in other words the wrong direction.  With time we learned that getting lost in the Italian country roads was to be expected and almost unavoidable. In all honesty, it is also where we had some of the most fun. We stepped-on and swatted all kinds of insects and spiders in Umbria and became the unofficial exterminators of the region. At the end of the Italian adventure the stars aligned when we visited Positano.  Unanimously our favorite city in Italy.  Our itinerary had us traveling throughout most of the country by plane, trains, and automobiles.  We covered over 2800 KM by car and made it alive and without a scratch on the car! It was an unforgettable experience and one that I would love to repeat (seriously).  Below is a quick recap of where we went.

Rome: April 27 - April 30







Bologna: April 30 - May 3


Best Pistachio Gelato ever!!!





Venice: May 3 - May 5








Lazisie, Verona: May 5 - May 7


Sunset at Lazisie
Verona Collesium


Mezzegra, Menaggio, Bellagio, Varenna: May 7 - May 9


View from our hotel in Mezzegra
Menaggio
Varenna
Bellagio
Milano: May 9 - May 10


Il Duomo
Vernazza, Pisa, Lucca: May 10 - May 11


So where did you stay again Celesta?

Pesto pasta in Vernazza




Firenze: May 11 - May 14



Ponte Vecchio





Tuscany & Umbria: May 14 - May 28


Relaxing in San Marino
Urbino
Poppy fields near Montepulciano
Lunch in Motalcino
Pienza 




Positano: May 28 - June 4




ruins at Pompeii


Last day in Italy...onto Ireland! Arrivederci Bella Italia!